MONTANA ACADEMY OF DOG TRAINING
BOZEMAN, MONTANA
BOZEMAN, MONTANA
MAIN: 406-580-9209 E MAIL: dksmadt@msn.com
SERVICES
Frequently Asked Questions:
Question: Do you have a facility where I can board my dog to have it trained by you?
Answer: While having trained many dogs in this manner at school, I currently do not take in dogs to train as I do not have the facilities to board them.
Question: Why do you only teach private sessions and not group classes?
Answer: For a few reasons: First, it is my personal preference. Second, I believe I can devote more time to the owner and dog. Third, I believe that other dogs generally impose some sort of distraction to a dog and being I believe in helping your dog out as much as possible, while in the initial learning phase, such distractions are best left for later on. Fourth, working with only one client enables me to handle the dog myself when starting an exercise, while working through a difficult problem or simply to let the owner "observe" how to apply the training. Fifth, I do not have to generalize and I can customize exercises as needed for the individual client. Finally, I believe the dog and owner teams get more out of it, being it is less stressful on them.
Question: What is the best age to start training my dog?
Answer: NOW! I have different approaches, methods and techniques depending what your future goal is with your canine. These approaches differ due to age, size and possible use. Can you teach an older dog new tricks? Sure, as long as it is not blind, deaf, overly aggressive, and is physically up to it. However, the longer a certain behavior has been allowed to develop and manifest itself within the mind of a dog, the more difficult it could be to change or eliminate it altogether. How much can you teach a young puppy? A lot! My puppy Kora at school completed a SCH II track, retrieve, send out, off leash obedience routine, etc. before she was 4 months old. If you do not want to train that young, you can always imprint inducivly for competition or just to have the perfect pet.
Question: How often do I have to practice training my dog on my own?
Answer: Repeat after me: Those who don't train, stay the same. Repeat again: The success of my dog depends on the amount of time, effort, dedication, patience, sweat, fun, consistency, persistence and commitment I as his handler and owner dedicate to it. Again, from nothing comes nothing. Practice sessions can vary in length of time to number of times a day, depending on the issues at hand. For the basic obedience commands, practice at least twice a day so that I as the instructor can monitor some of the progress and address some of the possible complications before the end of the course. In some cases it is unrealistic to expect a certain exercise to be reliable until it has been practiced often. Also, certain dogs can work longer sessions and handle more repetitions than others, due to attitude, capability of handling stress, attention span, age, etc.
Question: Why do I need an evaluation for my dog?
Answer: I generally combine the initial evaluation with the first training session or step. I observe the dog, determine your goals with it, determine a realistic time frame for training and possibly see how the dog reacts and responds to the training tools. While I try to find out as much as I can about the dogs' history and previous behavior development, if any knowledge of this exists, I generally don't base too much emphasis on all that occurred in the past and try to move forward with the training. Dogs live in the present and this should be the main focus while training them.
Question: What kinds of tools do you use?
Answer: I learned to use a vast variety of tools and stimulations while training dogs. I almost always use some sort of food and/or toy to motivate and reward proper execution and behavior. I do not train with the clicker. As far as collars go, I can honestly say that I have enough experience to train with most of them and will generally suggest one of the following: halter, flat collar, chain collar, prong collar, electric collar, etc. For basic obedience, I prefer to use and have accumulated more experience with the prong collar. Be prepared to use a variety of leads/leashes also: 2-4 foot, 6 foot, 20 - 30 foot long line, retractable or flexi leash, pull tabs, etc.
Question: What are your methods and how does your training differ from others?
Answer: It is my belief that people not only attach themselves to methods that they feel comfortable with and can apply easily, but also to personality types and individuals that they can relate with and understand. My conduct and interaction with dogs and people is calm, easy going, respectful, informative and fun. I expect to encounter problems with training any dog and help them overcome obstacles or confusion without getting overly excited or hysterical. Dog training is about communication, attitude and proper application. It is my job as a professional to make training as easy as possible for the dog to understand and the methods as easy as possible to apply for the handler. It is essential that methods are effective, reliable, fun and humane to the dogs.
Question: Do your methods work on rescue-, shelter-, abused-and problem dogs?
Answer: My methods work on about 90 percent of all dogs. Some breeds react differently to certain tools and methods and some take longer sessions of repetition than others. I try to approach each dog as an individual, with some regard to it's past history and current stress level, etc. If during training I encounter a problem or a certain level of resistance that is unacceptable or makes matters worse, I simply switch my approach tactics, tools or methods to ensure the dogs learning development.
Question: What sort of aggressions in dogs can you cure?
Answer: Here's my categorization of aggressions in dogs. I feel they are easiest controllable (with training) going from top to bottom. However, there are extremes to every category, plus if a dog develops and exhibits a combination of two or even more aggressions, it is likely to be more difficult to fix.
Dog Aggression (or Dog to Dog Aggression)
People Aggression (other than the owners)
Handler Aggression (anyone who tells the dog what to do)
Fear Aggression (the classical Fear Biter type)
Most types of aggression I have seen dogs display would fit one or more of the above list. While not all aggressions can be fully eliminated or reliably diminished, a vast number can be controlled to the extend where life with the dog is possible, given proper responsible ownership and lifestyle. Dealing with any sort aggression in a dog requires a great deal of commitment, responsibility, dedication and intense training efforts on the owners behalf, etc. Please see the disclaimer below for additional information.
Answer: While having trained many dogs in this manner at school, I currently do not take in dogs to train as I do not have the facilities to board them.
Question: Why do you only teach private sessions and not group classes?
Answer: For a few reasons: First, it is my personal preference. Second, I believe I can devote more time to the owner and dog. Third, I believe that other dogs generally impose some sort of distraction to a dog and being I believe in helping your dog out as much as possible, while in the initial learning phase, such distractions are best left for later on. Fourth, working with only one client enables me to handle the dog myself when starting an exercise, while working through a difficult problem or simply to let the owner "observe" how to apply the training. Fifth, I do not have to generalize and I can customize exercises as needed for the individual client. Finally, I believe the dog and owner teams get more out of it, being it is less stressful on them.
Question: What is the best age to start training my dog?
Answer: NOW! I have different approaches, methods and techniques depending what your future goal is with your canine. These approaches differ due to age, size and possible use. Can you teach an older dog new tricks? Sure, as long as it is not blind, deaf, overly aggressive, and is physically up to it. However, the longer a certain behavior has been allowed to develop and manifest itself within the mind of a dog, the more difficult it could be to change or eliminate it altogether. How much can you teach a young puppy? A lot! My puppy Kora at school completed a SCH II track, retrieve, send out, off leash obedience routine, etc. before she was 4 months old. If you do not want to train that young, you can always imprint inducivly for competition or just to have the perfect pet.
Question: How often do I have to practice training my dog on my own?
Answer: Repeat after me: Those who don't train, stay the same. Repeat again: The success of my dog depends on the amount of time, effort, dedication, patience, sweat, fun, consistency, persistence and commitment I as his handler and owner dedicate to it. Again, from nothing comes nothing. Practice sessions can vary in length of time to number of times a day, depending on the issues at hand. For the basic obedience commands, practice at least twice a day so that I as the instructor can monitor some of the progress and address some of the possible complications before the end of the course. In some cases it is unrealistic to expect a certain exercise to be reliable until it has been practiced often. Also, certain dogs can work longer sessions and handle more repetitions than others, due to attitude, capability of handling stress, attention span, age, etc.
Question: Why do I need an evaluation for my dog?
Answer: I generally combine the initial evaluation with the first training session or step. I observe the dog, determine your goals with it, determine a realistic time frame for training and possibly see how the dog reacts and responds to the training tools. While I try to find out as much as I can about the dogs' history and previous behavior development, if any knowledge of this exists, I generally don't base too much emphasis on all that occurred in the past and try to move forward with the training. Dogs live in the present and this should be the main focus while training them.
Question: What kinds of tools do you use?
Answer: I learned to use a vast variety of tools and stimulations while training dogs. I almost always use some sort of food and/or toy to motivate and reward proper execution and behavior. I do not train with the clicker. As far as collars go, I can honestly say that I have enough experience to train with most of them and will generally suggest one of the following: halter, flat collar, chain collar, prong collar, electric collar, etc. For basic obedience, I prefer to use and have accumulated more experience with the prong collar. Be prepared to use a variety of leads/leashes also: 2-4 foot, 6 foot, 20 - 30 foot long line, retractable or flexi leash, pull tabs, etc.
Question: What are your methods and how does your training differ from others?
Answer: It is my belief that people not only attach themselves to methods that they feel comfortable with and can apply easily, but also to personality types and individuals that they can relate with and understand. My conduct and interaction with dogs and people is calm, easy going, respectful, informative and fun. I expect to encounter problems with training any dog and help them overcome obstacles or confusion without getting overly excited or hysterical. Dog training is about communication, attitude and proper application. It is my job as a professional to make training as easy as possible for the dog to understand and the methods as easy as possible to apply for the handler. It is essential that methods are effective, reliable, fun and humane to the dogs.
Question: Do your methods work on rescue-, shelter-, abused-and problem dogs?
Answer: My methods work on about 90 percent of all dogs. Some breeds react differently to certain tools and methods and some take longer sessions of repetition than others. I try to approach each dog as an individual, with some regard to it's past history and current stress level, etc. If during training I encounter a problem or a certain level of resistance that is unacceptable or makes matters worse, I simply switch my approach tactics, tools or methods to ensure the dogs learning development.
Question: What sort of aggressions in dogs can you cure?
Answer: Here's my categorization of aggressions in dogs. I feel they are easiest controllable (with training) going from top to bottom. However, there are extremes to every category, plus if a dog develops and exhibits a combination of two or even more aggressions, it is likely to be more difficult to fix.
Dog Aggression (or Dog to Dog Aggression)
People Aggression (other than the owners)
Handler Aggression (anyone who tells the dog what to do)
Fear Aggression (the classical Fear Biter type)
Most types of aggression I have seen dogs display would fit one or more of the above list. While not all aggressions can be fully eliminated or reliably diminished, a vast number can be controlled to the extend where life with the dog is possible, given proper responsible ownership and lifestyle. Dealing with any sort aggression in a dog requires a great deal of commitment, responsibility, dedication and intense training efforts on the owners behalf, etc. Please see the disclaimer below for additional information.
- Most of the training takes place outside and is therefore weather dependent
- You will be expected to purchase and maintain all training equipment
- Pricing and offers are subject to change anytime unannounced
- Customized training is available with prior consultation only
- Payment options are only available with prior agreement
- Training packages are non-refundable, unless otherwise noted
- Training packages must be taken within a certain time period
- I will only tolerate one "no show" without prior cancellation
- Gift Certificates are available with prior consultation
- Training results are never guaranteed due to negligence and improper application of handler, lack of practice, etc.
- I can and will refuse services to anyone for any reason I deem necessary
- By standers, friends or extended family may not "sit in" on sessions without prior approval
- For a full list of my disclaimers and/or training contract information please contact me by clicking here:
Please Note:
Due to the fact that dogs are individuals, their character, temperament, energy level, aggression level, relationship to their handler and/or owner, previous training experience, etc., play a major role in training. Therefore, the order in which obedience exercises will be taught in my classes may vary from one dog to the other. Training exercises may be added or subtracted from courses in the process of training to benefit the learning ability of a dog and ensure trainablity. Additional behavior problems (such as handler aggression, dog aggression, people aggression, fear issues, maturity level, extreme dominance, etc.) may delay the training goal and interfere with certain exercises. Behavior issues and problems may sometimes go unnoticed in an evaluation of a certain dog and arise suddenly at a certain level of training. This may require having to tend to these problems before proceeding and continuing with the formal obedience training.
Due to the fact that dogs are individuals, their character, temperament, energy level, aggression level, relationship to their handler and/or owner, previous training experience, etc., play a major role in training. Therefore, the order in which obedience exercises will be taught in my classes may vary from one dog to the other. Training exercises may be added or subtracted from courses in the process of training to benefit the learning ability of a dog and ensure trainablity. Additional behavior problems (such as handler aggression, dog aggression, people aggression, fear issues, maturity level, extreme dominance, etc.) may delay the training goal and interfere with certain exercises. Behavior issues and problems may sometimes go unnoticed in an evaluation of a certain dog and arise suddenly at a certain level of training. This may require having to tend to these problems before proceeding and continuing with the formal obedience training.
Dos and Dont's of Dog Training:
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Abide to all leash laws in effect, keep your dog under control and be respectful to others
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While choosing your training locations, scout the area for any possible hazards, dangers or distractions
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Give your dog a chance to relieve himself before and after training
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Do keep training sessions short and fun for your dog
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Develop a reliable reward system that will make your dog crave training and working with you
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Always practice patience, self-control and keep a pleasant tone of voice
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Expect and anticipate complications and help your dog overcome them during training
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Praise your dog after each exercise, no matter how he performed; consistency in this area is crucial to the bond you have with him
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Consider that every dog is an individual and will learn at his own pace and some dogs may need more repetition than others
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Watch your dogs emotion, attitude and body language at all times and try to keep him as happy and upbeat as possible; the tail, ears, eyes, etc. serve as his "mood indicators"
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Try to end each training session with one of your dogs favorite games or something he will enjoy doing, this will relieve any possible stress that he was exposed to during training
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Dogs, like humans, are creatures of habit, so be as consistent as possible
- Don't train if you're short of time, stressed or in a bad mood as this will affect and transfer to your dog. Stop the training if it is not going well, preferably with an easy exercise. Praise the dog and try again at a later time
- Don't train if your dog is sick, too hot, too tired or on strong medications
- Don't give your dog big amounts of water or food prior to training
- Don't make training sessions too hard for your dog. Start and end with easy and familiar exercises, keeping the most difficult part of training in the middle of the session, always ending on a good note
- Don't ask your dog to learn or perform new exercises in high traffic environments with too many distractions as this will affect his learning ability and stress level, remember that an exercise must be "gradually" built and adding distractions, traffic and new environments are better added at a later point in training
- Don't correct your dog for something that he did wrong long after he did it. In order to successfully correct a problem the dog must associate what he did with the initial correction and if this is not possible and you've let too much time pass in the meantime, opt to not correct the dog at all
- Don't let anyone other than yourself handle, train or command your dog while he is in training. Inconsistency and confusion resulting from this can set your training back immensely and could take a lot of time and effort to fix
- Don't show off with your dog in front of friends and family until you are both ready. A disaster resulting from failure can be humiliating and affect the relationship between you and your dog
- Don't give a command unless you are able to enforce it to ensure the proper development of the behavior, command or exercise
Check back often, as I am constantly revising and adding to this
"List of Success"!
"List of Success"!
